Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Happy Birthday Amelia!



To the girl who wanted COOL stuff for her birthday:
 I just wanted to let you know you ARE cool stuff!
I loved spending time with you today doing girl stuff like shopping for a baptism dress and decorating your cake together.  You are a beautiful and fun loving girl .  I love the way you notice and take delight in the tiniest detail. 
love,
Mom

Monday, April 18, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 23

I made it home and all is well!

Details:

I checked out of my hotel Sunday afternoon and rode a taxi to the airport. One thing about Rio is that the taxi ride TO the airport is, or at least can be, a lot cheaper than the taxi ride FROM the airport. At the Rio airport, you get mobbed by drivers who insist that they are insulted that you would suggest they are trying to overcharge you. But returning to the airport, it's much easier to get a yellow taxi that charges a fair price. My taxi from the airport was R$90 (about $55), while my taxi back to the airport was R$52 (about $30). No traffic, despite yesterday's Niterói-Rio marathon.

I was very early to the airport. Rio actually has a decent amount of shops and food places in the international area, but you have to go upstairs and downstairs and all over to see it all. I bought some rapadura in the duty free shop. Rapadura is basically a block of brown sugar candy. Good stuff! I'll enjoy it with Tracy and the kiddodiddos one of these days.

I got a decent amount of sleep during my long flight from Rio de Janeiro to New York. It was probably the best night of sleep I have ever had on a plane.

Landing at JFK provided some interesting views of the pre-dawn city. New York is so huge that it's hard to get a sense of it until you actually visit. Even seeing it from the air doesn't give a fair picture. But the view was very nice. And as the plane touched down for a bumpy landing, I had a thrill as I thought, "I'm back." I don't have any connection to New York, but it's part of my country.

I am pleased to report that at JFK there were as many CBP officers helping Americans as there were officers helping foreigners. That was not true last time I returned to the U.S. This time, I flew through the line in five minutes. One of the highlights of my voyage home was what the CPB officer said to me sincerely when he returned my stamped passport:

"Welcome home."

Thank you, officer, for warmly welcoming a fellow American after a very long trip. You made my day.

By the way, simple math: CBP > TSA.

The flight was early, and I spent a couple of hours waiting for my final flight. Before boarding, they asked for volunteers to be bumped to a later flight, not because they were oversold, but because they were overweight. They offered a $250 voucher. I really wanted to get home to my family. Plus, if I had to get home late, I wanted cash, not vouchers. So I stood my ground. Fortunately, they got enough volunteers, and I boarded the regional jet that took me home.

We were early, and my luggage came right away. I tried calling Tracy, but no answer. I went to sit outside and look for Tracy, as well as breathe that American air. Mmm, freedom. I went back in to the baggage claim, and there were Tracy and all the kids! I went up next to them like I was watching the baggage claim with them, and after a few seconds one of them noticed me, and soon I was smothered in hugs and kisses from all my kiddodiddos and my darling wife!

After such a long trip, I thought the desire to travel would be completely gone. However, this was a very successful and in some ways enjoyable trip. The work in California stressed my limits, but my team and I came through and slew the beast at the Main Event. My visit in Manaus was delightful and I would love to go back someday with Tracy. Rio is Rio, which I have seen before but was just as nice the second time, and the work there was low-stress. I survived 23 days, 17,099 air miles, 14 South American taxi rides, 19 nights in hotels, three nights on planes, one corrupted operating system, two sunburns, two motorboat rides, and whatever else the Lord protected me from that I don't even know about. It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. I'm glad I did it, and I'm glad it's now over.

Excitement

We're off to pick up Daddy in just a few hours.  Can't tell you how excited I am to see his sweet face again.  The kids are dying to see him because "It's no fun with out him." 
I just can't wait to see how Rachel reacts.  She loved him on Skype 2 weeks ago.  She pointed and flapped her arms and made all kinds of excited noise.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 22

If everything goes well, this will be my next to last blog post for this trip. I am now in the Rio de Janeiro Galeão airport, waiting for my flight home through JFK. Unfortunately, I can't tell whether the Internet access is free or not, and to find out I would have to provide my driver's license number and many other unnecessary and inappropriate pieces of personal information, so I'll pass. Therefore, you probably won't see this post until I actually return, though I'll adjust the date so you may not even notice.

Day 22 started very nicely, as I went to church this morning in the Ala Botafogo (Botafogo Ward) of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. The last time I was able to go to sacrament meeting was March 20, so it's about time. There is a meetinghouse very close to the Botafogo metro station, and the metro trip was very quick and I arrived quite early.

Capela da Ala Botafogo

The ward members were very welcoming and friendly. Attendance was low today, but they told me it was lower than normal because of the upcoming Holy Week culminating with Easter. A lot of people have gone on vacation. Sounds like Spring Break, and I'm glad the people in this part of Brazil have that luxury. Botafogo seems like a nice part of town.

After church, I wandered the building a little bit. This church building has three stories, as well as an additional flight of stairs with roof access. I snapped a couple of photos from the roof:

Part of Botafogo in Rio de Janeiro, taken from the roof of the Botafogo LDS chapel looking west

Part of Botafogo in Rio de Janeiro, taken from the roof of the Botafogo LDS chapel looking southwest

I returned to my hotel via metro. By the way, if you use the Rio metro "Pré-Pago" (prepaid) card, be aware that you can only recharge it with at least R$5. I made a mistake and ended up leaving a few reais on my card. I'll use it next time I'm here, but I'm sure the fare will be higher then.

This afternoon, I was tired and needed to pack, so I took it easy and made it a true day of rest in my hotel. That was nice. By the way, I can recommend the Premier Copacabana Hotel in Rio de Janeiro. My room was generous. It wasn't the newest and looked a little dingy, worn, and dim, but it was also clean, safe, and comfortable. There was an ashtray on the sitting room table, but the room didn't smell like smoke (or anything, for that matter). Breakfast was really nice every day, one of the best free hotel breakfasts I have had (not as good as Hampton Inn though). They allowed me to stay Sunday afternoon before my flight for a small fee that was well under the daily rate, and that was very helpful. There was a slight snafu at checkout, when they played the Famous Minibar Trick, in which they accused me of taking items from the minibar (which I never do). I have been through that before at other hotels, and today they took me at my word when I said I didn't take anything and did not charge me.

Good news from home: Tracy is on the mend, and the kids are healthy. Many thanks to Ott and Tera for helping with the kids a couple of days ago, and thanks also to Miguel and Ellen for taking the kids to church today. Tracy is usually so healthy, but it's just my luck that I'm not around to help when she needs it. But I'm grateful for good friends who are willing to help.

Tomorrow I will conclude this 23-part series, which hopefully will be the end of the longest business trip for the rest of my life.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 21

Greetings from Rio de Janeiro on my last full day in Brazil. Tomorrow morning, I will complete three weeks away from home. Tracy and I have never been apart this long since we met, and I do miss her. I'm glad I'll be home on Monday.

However, I had a great day today. This morning I slept in a little. After breakfast, I went to Copacabana Beach to swim and sit in the sun. It was very pleasant. There were some large waves that knocked me down three or four times. Swimming in the ocean is one of my favorite things. Spending time in the ocean reminds me of when Moses had a vision of the earth and said, "Now, for this cause I know that man is nothing, which thing I never had supposed." (Moses 1:10) In my case, getting pulled under the water by one little wave near one little beach is powerful enough to make me humble. I had a talk with a colleague not too long ago in which he told me that surfing does the same thing, though he wasn't speaking religiously. Either way, no wonder the ocean is so captivating.

Copacabana Beach, taken near the Forte de Copacabana and looking northeast. I went to the beach a mile or two northeast of here.

After spending enough time at the beach to undo the farmer tan I got last weekend in Manaus, I showered and went to the Forte de Copacabana (Copacabana Fort) by subway. It's an old army fort on the point of land that sticks out in the ocean between Copacabana and Ipanema. The fort was somewhat interesting. There was also a military museum, which was also somewhat interesting.

The entrance to the Forte de Copacabana. There's a real soldier in period garb at the left side of the entrance. It's still officially an army fort and is run by Brazilian Army soldiers.

Forte de Copacabana. Just left of center is a helicopter that had just taken off from the fort. The Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf) is left of center in the background.

Part of the fort

On top of the fort, looking at one of the guns

Looking west from the top of the fort. The tall buildings are in Ipanema.

After visiting the fort, I got back on the subway to go to Glória, near the Centro, to visit the Museu da Arte Moderna (Museum of Modern Art). I'm not a big art fan, but I have seen a lot of Rio in two trips here and thought I would do something new. The museum was okay. I think I would have appreciated it more if I knew more about art. They do not allow patrons to take photos, but I took a few on the way there and back.

The Centro (downtown Rio). Taken from a pedestrian bridge over a highway, looking north.

Looking south from the same bridge. The tall hill in the background is the Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf).

The Museu da Arte Moderna building. Most of the museum is above the ground floor, and you can walk under it.

A rock garden and some modern art outside the museum.

Temporary facility for tomorrow's Corrida da Ponte (Bridge Race), a marathon from Niterói to Rio de Janeiro that crosses the Rio-Niterói bridge.

Look at the man in the center, and look at the airplane at the top. It's a motorized model airplane that is attached to a cable. The man is holding the other end of the cable and flying the plane. The sign at the right indicates that this area is for doing exactly what this guy is doing.

After I got back from the museum, I rested a little and had dinner. I ate pizza. Yes, of all the foods I could have eaten in Rio, all I wanted tonight was pizza. It's a good thing because there seems to be at least one pizza place on every block in Copacabana. After my pizza, I got on a bus to visit the Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf). I've been there before, but I thought I would see how it looks at night. The view was okay but nothing like the daytime view. The best thing is that the weather was cool and the sun was not in my eyes, so I just sat relaxing and looking at the lights for a while. A few photos turned out and here they are.

Model of the Pão de Açúcar and surrounding area

A cruise ship leaving Rio, taken from atop the Pão de Açúcar

Me with Copacabana Beach to my left, your right

A sculpture atop the Pão de Açúcar. The plaque indicates that the sculpture is supposed to represent the physical geography of Rio.

Santos Dumont airport, taken from atop the Pão de Açúcar. Santos Dumont was the Brazilian inventor of the airplane (not to be confused with the Wright Brothers, the real inventors of the airplane).

Flamengo Beach, taken from atop the Pão de Açúcar

Botafogo Beach, taken from atop the Pão de Açúcar

I'm glad I went at night, because it was very comfortable weather and easy on my eyes. But the spectacular views and photos are really only available in the day. It was definitely worth a try though.

I am very pleased that I head for home tomorrow. I know three weeks would be child's play for a lot of people, including our brave airmen, soldiers, and sailors. But I don't like to be away from my family for this long. It's time to get back to normal life.

Tomorrow's blog post will not likely show up tomorrow, because I probably won't have Internet access until I get home on Monday. I'm looking forward to a safe trip home and a wonderful reunion with my family.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 20

Happy Tax Day. This will be quick. Day 20 was a very slow day at the trade show. We decided to wrap up early. It was slow Friday traffic and it took us a couple of hours to get back to Copacabana. By the time I got here, I wasn't hungry for a meal, but I had some ice cream. I'm tired and already ready for bed.

If you're in Rio and you need a dependable taxi driver, I can put you in touch with Bernardo. He took me and my colleagues to and from the trade show every day. He was always on time to pick us up within 15 minutes of the scheduled time (traffic is bad here so that's remarkable), and he was quick and efficient yet polite and safe by Rio standards. He doesn't speak English, but otherwise he would be very helpful for your Rio travels.

Tracy is still sick. She saw a doctor, who said she (Tracy) has strep throat. At least that means it's treatable, but she sounds miserable. Please pray for her.

Twenty days down. Three to go. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it's not a train. I'm going to survive this.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 19

Helicopter at the trade show. I don't know what type or whose.

It was a decent day at the trade show. It was a slow taxi ride to the show, and it was a much slower ride from the show back to town. It seems there were multiple accidents at key points, including the Rio-Niterói bridge, that crippled traffic throughout the city. Fortunately, we have a great taxi driver named Bernardo who used his phone to network with his colleagues and find out about all the problems, and he knew a back way.

Tonight we had dinner together at Churrascaria Carretão. What a great place! They had all-you-can-eat meat, like Brazilian restaurants in the U.S. have. It was much less expensive than some of the other top-rated churrasco places in Rio, but I can't imagine how it would be better.

I'm sad to hear that Tracy is sick tonight with flu-like symptoms. Please pray for her. She has a big job taking care of the kids and house alone while I'm gone.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Latest projects

Yesterday and today we had new railings installed in our split foyer house. The old ones were seriously wobbly and had gaps between the posts, just perfect for tiny crawlers to fall through and/or curious toddlers to get their heads stuck in. We have wanted to replace them since we moved in. Here are the results.


Here's the final bathroom from my project.  I am calling it done even though I did not get the mirrors off the ceiling.  I don't think I really thought through what would happen when I attempted to pry them loose.  Shattering was not what I had in mind.   

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 18

Today was a lot like yesterday, except that we did not have to set up. We simply arrived and started talking to people at the trade show. It was a busy enough day. We had a good amount of traffic.

I forgot to mention that yesterday, my water bottle was taken from my computer stand. We had set out some company luggage tags as swag, but the water bottle was mine from a conference I attended in 2007 (and marked as such). I guess someone thought my still-wet bottle from 2007 was swag too, because it disappeared. (To the extremely intelligent person who did this: enjoy the bottle, as well as the cold sores you might now have for the rest of your life.) This morning I bought a bottle of water at a market near my hotel so I wouldn't have to pay the convention center price (about $0.80 near my hotel, about $2.40 at the convention center). During the show, I set my water on my stand, and it disappeared too! Good thing I locked my computer with a cable lock or maybe someone would have thought that was a freebie too.

I returned to my hotel around 8:00 and had dinner. I ate at one of those comida á kilo places. If you see a restaurant that says "á kilo" or "á quilo," it means you choose your food from a buffet and they weigh it to determine how much you pay. It's an economical and fast way to get some decent food. It wasn't all that cheap tonight, but no restaurant in Rio is. Plus they had some authentic Brazilian food: beans, rice, and farofa. It was not nearly as good as my lunch in Manaus, but it was good enough.

I sure miss my family. I'm glad I'll be home in five days, because this trip has already been too long.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 17

Today I did have a better day, after a nice night of sleep. My hotel room looks dilapidated and dingy, but in reality it's clean, safe, quiet, and comfortable.

Today we went to the trade show site to finish setup and do Day 1 of 4 of the show. The trade show suppliers here don't concern themselves much with making sure we're ready for showtime. It doesn't help that every service and piece of equipment--Internet, electricity, cabinets, this kind of chair, that kind of chair, etc.--comes from a different supplier. Thankfully, I speak enough Portuguese to get people to do what we needed, but we weren't completely open for business by showtime. No big deal. There wasn't much traffic until the afternoon. I was pleased that I was able to help the booth next door, which had no Portuguese speakers.

I worked today with some people from my company as well as some interesting folks from our Brazilian distributor's office here in Rio. We had a good day overall. It was productive but long. The show went until 7 PM. Then we had a long taxi ride back to our hotels. When I arrived, I went for some dinner at a restaurant that I have visited before. It was good but not as great as I remembered, so I'll try somewhere new tomorrow.

These long days of trade show and taxi will make this a one-dimensional week for me, similar to preparing for the Main Event a couple of weeks ago. I don't like it much. But this is what I do to provide for my family, and that makes it much easier.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 16

Today started when yesterday ended, at midnight in the Manaus airport. The flight left a little before 1:00, and after takeoff it was a little less than four hours until landing in Rio de Janeiro.

Let me make something clear: TAM Airlines could not run a redeye flight properly if someone's life depended on it. For one thing, the seats are unusually hard and uncomfortable, which made it almost impossible to sleep. For another thing, they kept turning the cabin lights on and off. After about an hour of lights mostly off, they turned all the lights on and served a drink and snack. I thought they could have done that without every single light. What's more, the snack boxes were wrapped in NOISY FOIL GIFT WRAP! Yes! On a redeye flight! I have never seen that kind of wrapper on airline food. I just had to laugh. I can't believe TAM thinks that's okay, let alone beneficial, on a redeye flight.

(Lest anyone think Brazilian airlines are low quality in general, my flight from São Paulo to Manaus on GOL a few days ago was great.)

But I made it to Rio just fine. So far, I'm annoyed with pushy taxi drivers, which I encountered to a small extent last time I was here. I'm also annoyed because the company put two of us in one hotel and the other of us (me) in another one, in different neighborhoods miles apart. That makes it difficult and/or expensive to get to the work site. I tried Metro plus a bus today, at the end of which I still had to catch a taxi for a few miles. That wasn't bad but probably not as efficient as I need to be.

I'm working on about 48 hours without sleep, so I'd better close it up. I wish I could say something good about Rio aside from the fact that I had a great time in Manaus. But I'm sure I'll feel better when I've had a decent night of sleep.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 15

Today is Sunday. If you read Day 1 and Day 8, you know that my last two Sundays were unusual for me. Today I was grateful to have a chance to go to church.

I could have gone to a ward closer to my hotel, so I decided to venture out into the "bairros" (neighborhoods) and attend the Tancredo Neves Ward. I decided to take the bus, so I headed to Terminal 1 (T1), the city center bus station. I asked how to get to Tancredo Neves. "You can't get there from here," the moneytaker said, "but you can get there from T2, so catch a bus to there." T2 looks out of the way on the map, but I trusted this advice and waited a long time for a bus to T2. Arriving there, I asked how to get to Tancredo Neves. "You can't get there from here," the moneytaker said, "but you can get there from T4 or T5, so catch a bus to one of those."

At that point I realized I was going to be late for the 8:30 church meetings, but it could have been much worse. I waited and along came a bus going to both T4 AND T5. "Either way, I can't lose," I thought. Besides, I had Google Maps on my bricked Android, which is not a brick when WiFi is available, and it caches maps! Yes! So before I left this morning, I cached up all the maps I would need. The GPS works without any signal or WiFi, so I could see where I was going. This bus went to T5, which was getting close to the church. I confirmed with the driver where he was going after T5, and sure enough, the bus went right through the neighborhood where the church is located.

I got off the bus and started walking up the side street where the church should be. When I was here, it was a rented warehouse, with temporary dividers and a portable baptismal font (we always went down to Coroado to do our baptisms though). But they don't meet in that warehouse anymore. Now they have a chapel next door.

Capela da Ala Tancredo Neves


Capela da Ala Tancredo Neves

Basketball/soccer court and satellite dish behind the chapel

The warehouse that used to be a rented chapel for the Tancredo Neves Ward

I was very happy to know there were enough members in the area to justify a meetinghouse. I went in and found two brothers in suits. I asked if there were meetings, and they said it would be stake conference. It's a stake center. I thought I was 15 minutes late for 8:30 meetings; it turns out I was 1 hour 15 minutes early for 10:00 conference. I chatted with a few people for a while, none of whom I knew or knew me. One is a bishop who has been in the Church for five years. Another is a stake presidency counselor who has been in the Church for four years. It's different here, where the Church grows by leaps and bounds in every demographic except adult males. If you're a man and active in the Church, they're going to put you to work.

I sat with some missionaries and an investigator of theirs who was going to be baptized that afternoon. They don't have a Portuguese-only rule anymore. And each companionship has a cell phone now. Other than that, it sounds like missionary life is very similar to how it was for me.

The conference was really nice, though when they turned on the fans it became too noisy for me to understand the last couple of speakers very well. I saw someone who I thought I recognized but turned out to be someone else. After the meeting, two or three people approached me to say they recognized me. I had to apologize for not recognizing them. But it's okay. When people get too attached to the missionaries, it can cause problems. If people become converted to the missionaries instead of converted to the gospel, they can lose their testimony when the missionaries leave (and they always leave!). I served, worked hard, helped a lot of people, and then faded away. I knew that with great members in Manaus, my converts were in good hands. (I did try to keep in touch with a few people, but that was before widespread email in Brazil, and when people stopped replying to letters that was pretty much it.)

I noticed more kids and youth at church than I remember. I also noticed that in general, everyone looked healthier and better dressed than in 1997. Also, the parking lot was full. Yes! Granted this was a stake conference, but when I was here usually only one or two families per ward had a car to drive to church. I noticed this outside my time at church too. It looks to me like the people of Manaus are turning a corner and making a better life for themselves.

After conference and chatting with several people, I took a walk to see the house where I lived in that neighborhood. I didn't take a photo because there were people in front and they probably would have thought it awkward. But I snapped a shot of a little market a few doors down:


This is typical of what you see in the neighborhoods. People sell stuff out of their house. Something I never realized about Manaus is how hard people work. Everyone is selling, working, going to work, etc. Like I said, they're turning the corner. This is a special place with special, hard-working, kind, generous people. I am overjoyed to see the improvement since I was here. Yes, there is still poverty, but there is a rising tide lifting all boats.

I caught a VERY full bus directly back to the city center. I don't blame the guys at T1 and T2 for not knowing about it. You can't know all the buses here. But any bus that says "T1" or "Centro" makes life a lot easier.

Late tonight, I go to the airport to fly to Rio de Janeiro, where I will work at a conference for the week. My time in Manaus is nearly done. I have had a great time, and I would be remiss if I did not thank a couple of those who helped make it that way:
  • Go Inn Manaus. It's a hotel with a funny name but has everything I needed (except shampoo). My room was small but clean and neat, with two comfortable twin beds, a safe, a mini-fridge, (drumroll please) hot shower, and (another drumroll please) American-style power outlets (220V but all my chargers work with 220V). The hotel was modern, and I felt very safe and comfortable. I have a view of the dome of the Teatro Amazonas and I'm convenient to lots of shops, supermarkets, and the T1 bus station. Note: Google Maps has the wrong location for Go Inn Manaus. It is on Rua Monsenhor Coutinho, but it's between Rua Ferreira Pena and Rua Eduardo Ribeiro.
  • Clive Maguire of Maguire's Guesthouse, whose Visit Manaus guide was invaluable. All or almost all the info in the book is available on his website, but having a printed copy is a good idea. Clive ended up shipping a second guide at no charge when the first was lost in the mail. I only regret that I did not have time to stop by and thank him for his help. I suspect a stay at his place would been even nicer than the Go Inn, but it's pretty far away from everything that I came to see and do.
What a wonderful visit I have had in Manaus, and I look forward to a good week of work and fun in Rio de Janeiro.

Saturday, April 09, 2011

Business Trip Extraordinaire--Day 14

Today I visited the temple I helped build.



A lot of people have worked very hard to put a temple in Manaus. Church members here are faithful to the Lord and to their families, and they share the gospel with everyone. They travel for days to get to the current temple and back. Missionaries here endure heat, humidity, rain, and disease, and their families have supported them and have had to wonder what kind of place this must be if it takes letters three weeks to get home (not that letters are written anymore now that everyone uses email). But the Lord is pouring his influence out on this city, and they are escaping physical and spiritual poverty one day at a time. The Manaus Temple will be a huge blessing for this region.

I arrived at the Manaus Temple on bus 120, which goes from the Centro to Ponta Negra. This is a small temple, and the bus went so fast that I almost missed it. Thankfully, I knew that the streets on the other side all had names of countries, and a street sign caught my eye, so I got off. By the way, the four streets closest to the temple (other than Avenida Ponta Negra itself) are named Itália (Italy), Inglaterra (England), Alemanha (Germany), and Pais de Gales (Wales)--the four countries from which most of my ancestors came. Coincidence? Probably, but I thought that was neat to have a reminder of my ancestors across the street from the temple in the city where I served.

I have a lot of photos, but the bandwidth is dreadful here so I'll upload what I can now and put the rest on Photobucket next week or the week after.

The temple and housing for traveling temple patrons are both under construction.

Constructions workers on the roof

Sign at the temple site

Artist's rendition of the completed temple. I reached as high as I could to avoid the wall enclosing the temple site, but I guess my billion-dollar arms were not long enough.

A view of the east side of the temple. The front faces north, i.e. toward Salt Lake. Coincidence? I guarantee it.

The only bad news:


For those of you who don't falam português, this is a sign for a visitor center. I didn't know there was one! The reason it's bad news is that it lists hours for Monday (Segunda-feira) through Thursday (Quinta-feira) and Friday (Sexta-feira), but not Saturday (Sábado), which is today. Que pena! I'm flying away early Monday morning and won't have time to see it. But that's okay. I saw what I came to see.

Plants with little velcro-like pieces stuck to my shoes in the median of Av. Ponta Negra while I was taking photos of the temple.

After the temple, I went to the same bus stop where I got off the bus. The bus shelter had an ad:

"Small Prices."

I beg to differ. R$8.00 is about $4.80, and R$5.00 is about $3.00. That makes your Big Mac, small fries, and small drink about $10.80. ("It's just a McDonald's ad. Who cares?," says you. "Be patient," says I.) But I am curious about where the McDonald's is located. There famously was not one in Manaus when I lived here.

Near the temple was also a Coca-Cola ad (which made it into my first temple photo by mistake; deleted), as well as a billboard for a "motel," which means something quite different here. Let's just say that temple patrons would not choose to stay at a "motel" in Brazil.

Back to the main subject. The reason I went to the same bus stop was to head further west through Ponta Negra in order to visit the Museu do Seringal. ("Museu" means "rubber," "do" means "plantation," and "seringal" means "museum.") I wasn't sure exactly how far out the bus went, but I found out after about two minutes when the bus did a U-turn and started heading back toward the city. I got off the bus immediately. I was then at the Praia (beach) da Ponta Negra. Interesting place. I didn't go all the way down onto the beach since I wasn't dressed for it. But I wandered down near the food vendors to find a restroom. I found a typical Manaus facility, which means that you, gentle reader, have never seen a bathroom like this. Use your imagination. But the city is revitalizing the area, as you can see in some of the photos, and the natural beauty is evident:

Praia da Ponta Negra, on the Rio Negro, one of the two main tributaries of the Amazon (the other being the Rio Solimões (say SO-lee-MOINGS)). The gray and red thing on the right is one side of an arch that is part of the revitalization project. The building in the center is a hotel I believe.

Rio Negro, taken from Ponta Negra. The city center is downstream/left/southeast of here.

At Ponta Negra, the top of a wrecked gazebo. I can relate.

I'll bet you didn't know there was a bridge across the Amazon, did you? Neither did I. They must have built it in the last 13 years. Wow. Now maybe they can make the highway to the south passable, and suddenly Manaus will be connected to the rest of the country. The left side is somewhere in Manaus, on the north bank, and the right side is on the south bank.

Maybe the revitalization project will address these steps. But maybe not. No ADA, no problem!

After visiting Ponta Negra briefly, I decided to try walking to the Marina do Davi, where I could supposedly catch a boat to the museum. I had a map and probably would have made it, but not two minutes into my walk, a nice-looking couple offered me a ride and I gratefully accepted. I am not one to hitchhike, and I did not, but in northern Brazil I trust people who offer rides. I wouldn't do it in Rio, which is fine because they would not offer. This very kind couple was going to the Marina as well, and they even showed me exactly which boat to catch.

Marina do Davi, near Ponta Negra in Manaus

The motorboat I rode really cooks. I don't know how fast it was, but faster than I expected. It can hold about 30 people when it's full, and the driver would not leave until it was full. We made lots of stops at various beaches and villages before the museum.

One of the beaches where the boat let people off

The forest growing in the Rio Negro. This time of year is high water, though many of the beaches have usable space this year.

DUUUUUUUDE! No wonder so many people go motorboating.

After about half an hour of dropping people off at various places up various creeks upstream/west of Manaus, we arrived at the museum. To my surprise, I was the only one to exit the boat there.

My boat, leaving the museum, with a few passengers left to drop off.

This made me wonder if maybe the museum wasn't such a good idea. But it looked interesting enough, and besides the boat had already left, so I gave it a try.

Museu Seringal Vila Paraíso from the boat dock.

The museum turned out to be immensely interesting. A gentleman greeted me on my way up to the buildings, and he called out to someone, "Ele tem português" (literally, "He has Portuguese"). Unintentional best compliment of the day. Thank you sir!

The someone he was calling turned out to be my tour guide. She spent a long time showing me the whole facility and knew all about it. It's a replica that was built for a movie, and they have kept it running as an actual rubber plantation, except that they only have a few people working it. The real plantations were owned by rich Europeans and/or Brazilians, and they were worked by basically slaves from northeastern Brazil. It was a horrible life. They lived under a tiny shelter, where they also had to make the rubber, which involves pouring the rubber milk onto the mass of rubber while turning the rubber, and then putting it over a fire. Remember, this is inside their living quarters. They also had to collect the rubber milk from the trees in the middle of the night, because that's when conditions were best. They were not free to leave and had no chance to escape.

The owner of the plantation would trick them out of their meager salary. For example, he had a chapel built for one of the Catholic saints, and once a year they would have a party for a month in honor of this saint, where food and drink were provided. Little did the workers know that the owner was keeping track of the food they ate and counting it against them!

Nowadays, it's run by my tour guide and her husband. They live there, in modern quarters apparently, and the rest is built to look like an authentic rubber plantation.

The owner's dining room

The owner's kitchen. The disc on a rope is to keep scavenging animals from getting the fruit. They would grease the disc, so that if an animal climbed down the rope, it would slip on the disc and lose its balance and fall. You probably think that's overkill, because you have never lived in northern Brazil.

The company store, one of the multiple ways the owner would trick the workers out of their money. The gray cylinder with a hole through it is a replica ball of rubber. The replica weighs 8 kg. A real one weighed 50 kg.

The private bath for the owner's daughter. Not quite so private, because it faced the river, where the workers bathed.

Rubber milk dripping from the tree and running into a little cup, which a worker would empty every night and then carve a new groove

Home of the top worker, selected by the owner as an incentive to work hard

Home of a regular worker. The little tower in the middle is a fireplace. The rubber ball is over it. They would sleep wherever there was room. I will never complain about bringing work home with me again.

My tour guide (I forgot her name but she was great), showing a simple Indian device for drying out manioc flour (farinha). Put the coarse flour in, pull the ends, and the moisture is squeezed out. Indians' only involvement with the rubber industry is that they would sometimes attack and kill the workers. (If you think it's politically incorrect to call them Indians, go to Brazil sometime and ask them about "native Brazilians" and enjoy the funny looks you will get.)

The European device for drying out manioc flour. The workers who couldn't handle working in the jungle were assigned to make manioc flour.

Cupuaçu (COO-poo-ah-SOO), the most glorious fruit invented. It's hard to describe what the pulp inside tastes like. I guess it's a little like a very sweet banana, sort of? Help me out, MBM alumni. Anyway, it is found only in the Amazon region. You can't export the seeds, so there is no cupuaçu of any volume anywhere else.

This tour was awesome, definitely a highlight of my trip so far. The tour guide was very informative, and also patient with my slow understanding of Portuguese nowadays. When the tour was done, she put up a big white flag to indicate to the boats that there was a passenger ready to go. I was the only visitor the whole time I was there, so it was just me. In about 15 minutes, a boat showed up. It was empty, except for the driver and attendant. They took me straight back to the Marina with no stops. It was early in the afternoon, so most people were probably not done for the day and heading back yet. The point is that this was a private boat for me, ala Where the Wild Things Are.

I could get used to this.

Arriving at the marina, it was about 2:00 and I was hungry. There are lots of little shops along the road that ends at the marina. There is also a small outdoor restaurant. I approached and ordered. The choices were beef, beef, chicken, fish, fish, or fish. They talked me into a popular regional fish, tucunaré. I'm on the banks of the world's largest river; I have to have fish sometime. It took a while, but when it came, wow:

Now that's what I call almoço. Left to right: macarrão (noodles), salada de alface e batata (green salad with potatoes), arroz (rice), feijão (beans), limão (lime), e tucunaré (tasty fish).

This was just like meals that church members would feed us for lunch when I was a missionary. When they would serve fish, they would cook a huge one for the whole family and the missionaries, instead of individual small fish like you see on my plate. Otherwise, it was just the same and brought back a lot of memories. I added a 600 mL (20 oz) guaraná soda, and the total was R$10 (about $6). Let's see, $6 for a full home-cooked delicious meal, or $10.80 for McDonald's.

I think this was a family-run restaurant. I asked the man about getting to the bus stop (remember, I hitched a ride to get there). He said to wait a while and there would be a free bus to take me to the bus stop. I waited a long time and then, when he wasn't looking, I decided to walk. I had my map and knew it couldn't be more than half an hour. About three minutes into my walk, I met a group of ladies and asked if they knew where a bus stop was. "Right here," they said (in Portuguese). But this was to catch the free bus that my lunch host recommended. They said if I were in a hurry, I should start the half-hour walk. If half an hour is a hurry, I figured I'd better start. Sure enough, two minutes after I left, I saw the bus coming, so I ran back and got laughed at a little. They were very nice and explained how it worked. Soon I found my way back to the city center.

In U.S. public transit, you're not supposed to eat or drink anything. That is also true in Brazil on the actual bus. But in a bus station, you can eat and drink, and there are a multitude of vendors to help you do so. I loved the smell of the cupuaçu at the museum so much that I decided to seek out a cupuaçu picolé. Picolé is like a popsicle but better because it's made from actual fruit pulp. It's like a fruit pudding pop. They only make them from local fruits, so I think the only one you would encounter in the U.S. is banana.

Picolé de cupuaçu. Mmm.

After cooling off and drying off briefly in my room, I went to the Palacete Provincial. It has been a lot of things over the years, but today it houses five different museums. I spent a couple of hours there and it was very enjoyable and free of charge. The most interesting of the museums was the one for the Amazonas military police (Polícia Militar), where I learned a lot about the history of the region. I'm told that all the docents speak enough English to pass a test before starting their job, so you can probably see this without much trouble. They don't allow photos, but here is a photo of the entrance:

Entrance to the Palacete Provincial

I left when they closed at 7:00. Walking back to the hotel, I went through yet another attractive square. This one was next to the Palacete Provincial, and the palace and square were both restored at the same time in the last 10 years.

Fountain in Praça Heliodoro Balbi

Final photo of the day (I can't begin to explain this):

Punched-up Mickey Mouse fun bus

I think the character hanging on for dear life was supposed to be Mickey Mouse, but he looked more like the Travelodge mascot, which Tracy once described as a punched-up Mickey Mouse.


I had a great day! The people of Manaus are friendly, patient, and generous, and it is a wonderful city to visit. I can imagine that it might not be that inviting if you don't speak Portuguese or you don't want to experience part of the developing world. Plus you can probably see all there is to see within a few days. But I sure enjoyed this day.

Tomorrow I plan to go to church in a couple of different wards and possibly see some people I knew when I lived here. Then I'll have time to kill before my flight. I won't likely be able to blog much if at all, but I'll write it up and then post it on Monday. It will likely be much briefer than today's entry. Thanks for reading!